Byron Royer served as the seagoing cowboy night watchman on this first UNRRA sailing of the SS Zona Gale. His job was to make rounds every hour or so to check on the horses and to contact the veterinarian if any were in trouble. One of the perks of this job was viewing the sunrise over the Atlantic.
“A funny thing about a sunrise on the ocean,” Royer noted in his journal, “is that the sun seems to pop out of the ocean. . . . As it pulled up and away from the water, the lower part seemed to cling to the water and stretch a part of the sun down into the sea slightly. When it let go it seemed to spring very much like rubber would have and sorta bounce up away from the water. It was a beautiful thing to see.”
After ten days on the Atlantic, the ship reached the Straits of Gibraltar. On day seventeen the Zona Gale anchored for a day in the harbor of Augusta, Sicily. “As we were coming in . . . we saw a number of metal things in the water,” Royer said. “Some were ball-shaped and others in the shape of a big circular metal tank.” He said they turned out to be a huge submarine net used in the war to keep submarines out of the harbor. Being only two months after the end of fighting in Europe, the nets had not yet been dismantled. Passing the mast of a ship sticking out of the water as they pulled into the harbor Royer noted, “This was the first casualty of the War that we have actually witnessed and it brought us back down to earth after a rather idealistic life at sea.”
After dropping anchor, Royer said, “our attention was caught immediately by a most interesting sight. Small boats were literally swarming away from the far shore,” racing out to the three ships lying at anchor. The “bum boats” had arrived, with local men wanting to buy American cigarettes that they would then sell on the black market, or to trade goods like guitars and mandolins for cigarettes.
The crew and cowboys didn’t get shore leave in Augusta, but they did have fun that day. After the ship dropped anchor, Royer said the cowboys heard a splash and shouts of exhilaration on the port side of the ship. They ran to check it out. “There below us was the Maintenance Electrician swimming around as if the whole harbor were a special pool for him alone,” Royer said. It didn’t take long for more of the crew, followed by the cowboys, to go down the ladder hung over the side to join him. “I had never been in salt water before and that part of it was thoroughly enjoyable,” Royer said. “There was only one thing which dampened our spirits a little. The scuppers on that side of the ship were still draining a little from the efforts of the boys earlier in the morning to flush the manure out of the holds. The brown parts around the ship were a little disconcerting at times, but after holding the breath and swimming out to the clean water, it was great sport.”
The next day, sailing around the heel of Italy to the Adriatic Sea headed for Yugoslavia, the crew received a change in orders. No longer would they be docking in Split, Yugoslavia, but rather Trieste, the “no man’s land” at that time between Italy and Yugoslavia. “We gather that the load of horses might possibly be a political football in the mighty game of politics that is being waged even yet by the United Nations,” Royer said.
After a short stop in the severely bombed city of Ancona, Italy, the Zona Gale proceeded on to her destination. “We were on ‘hazardous pay’ voyage,” cowboy supervisor Clarence Rosenberger said. The regular crew got bonus pay when traveling in dangerous areas, but not the cowboys.
“We went up the Adriatic in convoy just behind the mine sweeper. Our sharp shooters would blow up the dislodged mines. We were fortunate as we were the first civilian ship into Trieste.”
The SS William J. Palmer that departed New York with another load of horses for Yugoslavia two weeks after the Zona Gale wasn’t so lucky. The ship hit a mine and sank off the coast of Trieste. All humans survived, but over 300 Yugoslavian farmers did not get the horses they were anticipating.
Next post: Exploring Trieste